Watermelon Woes in the Promise Land

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2009 Promise Land 50K++ Adventure.  Where to start??? Okay how about from the beginning.  Our adventure begins Thursday afternoon when I met Ultra at his house in New Haven to give him a ride to the rental car place to get our car for the trip.  Presented with a few similar cars to choose from, his only request to me was to not choose the red one because it attracts the police.  In my mind, I said to myself  “We are in for a ride this weekend”

Along with Ultra and myself, Sandy Beauvais was coming for the adventure.  Ultra and Sandy came to pick me up around 7:30 AM on Friday to begin our 10 -12 hour ride to Virginia.  Along the way we stopped in Hamburg, PA to visit with Ultra’s Aunt Betty and Uncle Luke and had a bite to eat with them at Pecky’s up the street.  After a nice lunch we said our good byes and headed off again to Virginia.  Exiting PA we crossed in to WV and then MD and finally into Virginia.

Entering into Virginia we were driving along a valley with mountains in the distance on both sides. I believe we were in the Shenandoah valley. We passed the famed Massanutten mountains and finally came to our exit. We got off the highway and proceeded up into the mountains by way of a very scenic road giving us a taste of the views to come the next day. Along the way we passed some Deliverancesque homes complete with outdoor gym equipment.

My inner voice piped up and said” Now boy, don’t get lost up in those there yonder mountains tomorrow, ya hear!!!” We finally pulled into the Promise Land camp a little after 6 PM. We made our way our way across an already pretty full field to the edge that is along a creek. It was warm and sunny. A foreshadowing of what tomorrow was to bring. As we approached the spot we chose, somebody yelled out Ultra’s name. This was my first introduction as to how well known our Mr. Ultra is in the trail running community. We claimed some spots between the pop up camper and another tent and proceeded to set our tents up quickly before we went over for the pizza dinner that was already under way. I wanted to get this done with quickly so that I could get to the pizza because I wasn’t sure how much would be left, as we all know some race directors aren’t as good as others at estimating how much food they would need. It turned out that there was enough pizza for that night and even for breakfast the next day. We were asked to bring some kind of dessert and there was a huge pile of goodies. Gretchen had sent me with a large plate of some very rich brownies which were very good. I left the plate before I got my pizza and snuck a brownie. Good thing, because those brownies went quick. I guess those southerners never tasted good Northern baking before.

After dinner, and before the race briefing at 7:30, we went back over to our tents with a couple of runners from Branford, John Tratynek and Joanne Serra. It was John’s birthday and we shared a carrot cake and some munchies for his birthday. Heading back over to the picnic pavilion, we heard RD Dave Horton tell us about the race and he had a raffle for some nice Montrail, Patagonia, and other stuff. Sandy was lucky enough to win a nice Patagonia pull over. After the briefing a bonfire was lit. Sandy went to bed and Ultra and I stayed to mingle. We spoke to a group of young college students who were running the race and this was their first ultramarathon. Dr. Horton has a running class he teaches at Liberty University and the students had a choice to either do Promise Land or a 10 Mile timed run for their final. They had chosen to take on the Promise Land. Gullible youth. I actually give them a lot of credit to take on such a challenge and it will serve them well in their future confidence. The field was noticeably younger down there than up here. Not only does he have a bunch of college age kids, but also a lot of twenty-something year olds. It’s either his influence, or the trail running culture may be broader down south. At the bonfire we were even entertained by a novice fire dancer who had brought along his fire torches. I told Ultra I knew I forgot something. I know he was just trying to impress the girls. Ah, to be young again. I was just happy he didn’t set his clothes on fire. it was around 9:30 and time for bed. I was lulled by the creek about 20 ft. behind my tent and sleep came quickly after the long day.

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I slept pretty well and woke up just before 4 AM. The race was to start at 5:30 AM. It was a little cool in my tent and I got dressed in my sleeping bag. I thought I would need a sweatshirt when I got out of the tent, but there was a warm wind blowing and I was plenty comfortable in just racing shorts and a short sleeve shirt. It was actually eerie warm. The breeze itself was very warm, but you could still feel that the land was cool and there was a mix of warm/cold areas. To be this comfortably warm at 4 AM was not a good omen. I had a bagel and some apple juice and went back to the tents where we all were doing our own pre race rituals. Last minute equipment decisions were made, Body Glide put in private areas and last minute weight reductions were deposited. All five of us then met at the start line for the national anthem and a prayer. We wished each other well, said to be careful and lined up at the start.

It is dark and Ultra and I opted to go lightless, while Sandy had hers. There were enough people with lights that they weren’t needed. The race runs across a field and out of the camp and with a left we start on a long gravel road uphill, which gets progressively steeper as you go. The road is in good shape and basically follows the creek that flows through the camp. On this road there are many houses that look surprisingly normal. But remember looks can be deceiving (Queue banjo music, run fast). Anyway after about a mile up this road, I come upon Ultra, I should say I heard him first.

Okay an aside here, Ultra thinks I am breaking his stones about his talking. I’m not, I actually enjoy it and am impressed by him. I am so not that person. I am much more reserved and conservative and don’t strike up a conversation so easily. I dubbed him the Pied Piper of Ultras. The conversations I heard generally were ultra related and him giving “you can do it” encouragement. I generally race alone and don’t converse. Both of them were about to change.

Back to the race, I got into step with Ultra and Walt, who had dropped at mile 62 in the Umstead 100 and was thinking about the Vermont 100. Ultra encouraged him to do it. Just past a sign that said “End State Hwy. Maintenance” the “road” turned a lot rougher and steeper and we walked to the first aid station at the end of the road. The race now entered the trails and we kept climbing up several switchbacks to the top of Onion Mountain. We had just climbed over 2300 in four miles. Going over Onion Mountain we went down through the woods for a short while until we came out to a grass covered road. This road is cut into road is cut into the side of the mountains and there are beautiful views off to the open side. Somewhere along this route I got ahead of Ultra and was feeling good, so kept moving. I knew he would catch me later. With about 5 miles before the next aid station and gentle ups and downs the running was quick. With the sun rising and the being alone I got to thinking how Sadie would have loved this. I also got to thinking how beautiful it was and I thought of my friend who had recently gone blind from an illness and thought that he would never see such a thing and thought how fortunate I am to be able to be here.

Aid station 2, at mile 9.7, was located along a rushing creek on the road. The aid station, along with the rest were well stocked. Even having boiled potatoes. I also saw a first for an aid station. Water was being taken from a spring in the mountain for the runners.

Leaving AS2 we get into a double track trail that continues up to the crest of the ridge we just ran beside and crosses the Blue Ridge Parkway near the summit of Apple Orchard Mountain. It was along this section that I heard that familiar voice from below on one of the switchbacks. As I continued up, I heard the voice again, but much closer. Coming up from behind was Ultra with a couple from Ohio. I believe he told me that the man had run Boston last week. Anyway, we were back together now and continued the climb to the Blue Ridge Parkway. After crossing the Parkway we started down to AS3 at Sunset Fields on a nice gravel fire road that ran parallel with the Parkway. AS3, at Mile 13.7, is right on the Blue Ridge Parkway at a parking area that is used as a trailhead for the Apple Orchard Falls Trail. From this aid station is a breathtaking view of the Shenandoah Valley off to the west and is a great spot for an aid station to replenish the body and soul.

Leaving AS3 we head down the first technical single track/double track of the race. It’s about four miles to the next aid station and the trail follows the cascading, swollen Cornelius Creek to that aid station. It is a beautiful section of the course and it crosses the creek many times. With the temperature starting to rise these crossings afforded a place to soak your feet in the icy water and cool your body. Ultra was running with a hat and scooped up a hatful of water and dumped it on his head. I had a Bimbler’s Bluff 50K buff around my neck and soaked that and put it back around my neck to cool the blood flowing to my head. >I was also using a second buff around my wrist to wipe my face of sweat. I think this was about the time I started noticing the bugs. I don’t know if it was the sweat, creek water or both, but the bugs starting coming like crazy and would stay all day. I had forgotten what I didn’t like about running in the summer other than the heat, but every little black speck reminded me for the next few hours.

Coming into AS4, at Mile 17.8, Ultra and I replenished our water bottles and got some goodies. After mainly going with water and GU, I wanted something solid and had some pretzels and Pringles. I love to eat Pringles in a race. Just one of my selfish indulgences. Heading out of the AS, we ran down a run able dirt road along Cornelius Creek, which was more like a small river now, for about 2 miles before heading back into the woods on a single track trail that went uphill. Along this section, I started to hit a low and wanted to walk a little. Ultra took advantage of the slow down and watered the flora on the side of the road. This was important, because it was the first time he went and I had not gone yet. We had drank a full bottle between each of the aid stations, but his “business” was still dark. We were a little dehydrated despite our best efforts and would need to watch that.

The trail entrance was the lowest elevation of the race. Continuing on the single track through the woods, we hit AS5 in about a mile. AS5, is at Mile 20.8, and was supposed to have ice cream. I was only offered frozen pink lemonade and declined it. I was hoping for ice cream, but that probably wouldn’t have been a good idea anyway with the heat. I grabbed more pretzels and Pringles, YUMMM, and we again left together. Leaving AS5 we headed out on a grassy fire road which gently undulated in an uphill trend. I was starting to feel the heat and was tired, but Ultra hung with me. We came up to a dirt road and ran into a group of birdwatchers. I am sure they weren’t happy with all of these runners disturbing the general peace of the forest, but Ultra asked them if they had seen anything. Unable to resist his charm, the birdwatchers proceeded excitedly to tell us about the rare birds they had spotted. Ultra replied you really saw a “INSERT BIRD OF CHOICE” and they replied proudly, Yes. Now, at this point I wasn’t sure, and I am still not, if Ultra was just messing with them, or was generally interested. I mean, did you know that he used to collect butterflies?

Cutting back onto the grassy fire road after going a short distance on the gravel road, we continued our meandering, upward trend. At this point, I told Ultra to go ahead because he seemed to have a good pace going and I was getting low again. I needed a little alone time to get myself together. So this is the first time in 16-17 miles we had separated. Finding myself alone, I did get the urge to go pee. I guess its the whole shy bladder thing. Finally the course turns off the grass road to a run able single track along a small creek down to the aid station for about a mile. We are now back at the aid station at Cornelius Creek. We have just made a big loop and arrived at AS4/AS6 at Mile 25.9. At this point I saw Ultra leaving the aid station as I was coming in and I was happy to see I had not fallen too far behind him. This was the last time I saw him until the finish line.

At this aid station they had my favorite hot weather fruit, watermelon. Okay, so what’s the Number 1 Rule in an ultra. Don’t do eat or wear anything you haven’t tried in training. But it was so hot now, in the 80s, I just ran 26 miles, and I had a long climb in my immediate future. I said, “Yes, dammit, I deserve a little selfish pleasure”. Boy, it was good at the time.

I left the aid station after filling my bottle and having a few small wedges of watermelon. This segment of the course is about 3 miles long to the next aid station. Bad news is you gain about 2000 feet of elevation in those 3 miles. The trail brings you up a ravine that parallels North Creek most of the way. About a quarter mile up the trail, my stomach started turning sour and I started burping, you guessed it, watermelon. Now my stomach turned real nauseous and I wanted to throw up, but I couldn’t do it. This was the first time I ever had a problem with my stomach and I have to say it is very hard to keep exerting yourself, in that heat, when you want to puke on the trail. I know a lot of you are shaking your head right now saying, “I’ve been there”. I came upon a runner who was squatting on the side of the trail, holding his legs across his shins, and was staring with wide open eyes across the trail. He had definitely checked out mentally. I saw others talk to him, but when I got there I still had to see if he was okay. He was profusely sweating, so he wasn’t in heatstroke yet, but he sure was close to heat exhaustion. He was able to say he was okay and gave off the “Leave me alone” vibe, so I left him. After about 100 feet up the trail, I thought I should have got his race number to tell the next aid station, but I wasn’t going back at that time. Sorry, buddy. Others were behind me.

I had to keep my mental strength up also. I felt like crap. I kept stopping to soak my Buff and started wearing it like a bandana to thwart the sun that was beating down. The leaves still had not come out on the trees, so there was no shade. Many people were stopping in the creek or any other place they could find shade and resting. I kept telling myself, “Constant Forward Motion. Keep moving no matter how slow. Once you get to the top it is mostly downhill to the finish.” I was determined to finish and I had plenty of time to do it. It wasn’t going to be pretty, but I was not quitting. I did have to be careful however. There were many runners suffering the effects of the heat and the distance at this point.

About two thirds the way up, the trail passes Apple Orchard Falls. This is a multi-tiered waterfall down a sharp cliff about 150 feet high. The trail goes over a wood bridge, and then goes up the side of the falls in a series of wooden steps. Ultra counted them and I believe the number was 174 or somewhere there about. The beauty of this whole section was amazing. It kept my spirits up. Again I thought how fortunate I am to have the ability to come to such a place. Then realization hit and I said “Keep moving your stupid ass up the hill.” About a half mile from the aid station, my stomach was feeling better, and I think I could see the light at the end of the tunnel, so I was able to get down a GU and some water before pulling into AS7 at Sunset Fields at Mile 29. There were bodies everywhere. The effects of the climb was really evident here. There was even an ambulance on the way for a runner suffering from heat stroke.

I was able to get some pretzels and Pringles, YEAH, down and started back down Apple Orchard mountain to one more aid station on my way to the finish. The girl at the aid station said it was all downhill from here. LIAR!!! I was screaming in my head. From race reports and the elevation profile, I knew there was a small 200 ft. climb over Onion Mountain left and 5 miles to the finish. Well I think she was just being good intentioned. Or was she? Well that argument occupied my mind for a few minutes of running anyway.

I ran out of the aid station, across the Blue Ridge Parkway, and into a nice double track trail. It felt good to run to be running downhill again. I felt good and was making up some time until the next hill. I trudged up it, but I was really starting to feel beat. It was in the upper 80’s by now and boy, it felt every degree of it. Going over Onion Mountain the trail turned truly downhill for good to the finish. The trail was pretty technical with lots of loose rocks and was slow going. Finally I came out of the trails to the gravel road and the final aid station. They had ice here!!! I put some in my water bottle and wrapped it in my Buff around my neck. This aid station was actually a 50K. However, there were three more miles to the finish. I started down the final 3 miles to the finish. I passed a couple of people and then I was alone. I was trying to push hard down the hill and then I could hear and see a couple of younger people catching me. I was trying to duck around the curves hoping the site of me wasn’t going to spur them on because my tank was pretty much empty and I was running on fumes. I kept up as best I could, but the two runners passed me with about a mile to go. Wind blown out of my sails, I started to walk. I was dead, the sun was beating down on me on the open road, and I looked at my watch and knew I would finish before 8 and a half hours. “Wow”, I said to myself. “This is the longest I have ever run in my life.” Walking for about a half mile I heard footsteps coming and I was resigned to another passer, but to my surprise the gentleman stopped and started walking with me. He was a tall, big, upper middle aged man with a washcloth on his bald head. He asked if I would mind if he walked with me. I don’t know if he felt sorry for me, or was just looking for an excuse to walk also. We exchanged introductions, and then where we were from. He said” Do you know Brian Loose?” I told him we came down together. It also happened to be his birthday. He was 58. We chatted a little, and I told him it was nice of him to stop, but I didn’t want to hold him up. Instead he suggested we start running slowly together. We ran together to close to the finish line when he met a friend of his who had come out to see him in. His friend said “C’mon, keep going”, but out of the corner of my eye I could see that he told his friend to stop and let me finish in front of him. He just yelled” Keep Going!!” A real southern gentleman.

I ran across the field to the finish line to cheers from the assembled crowd and was greeted with a handshake by race director David Horton. I was happy to see Ultra at the finish line snapping away with his camera. Time for a shower and some food while waiting for Sandy to come in. I felt pretty refreshed after the shower and was tired, but not totally beat.

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Ultra and I sat at the finish line waiting for Sandy to finish. We were getting nervous that she would not finish in the 10 Hour time limit. At about 15 minutes to go she appeared in the field headed toward the finish. She was weaving and not making a direct route to the finish. She looked really affected by the heat. She crossed the finish line with 12 minutes to spare and having obvious heat related issues, Ultra took her by the arm and guided her to the creek and sat her in it to cool down. After a couple of minutes she was much improved and was able to talk coherently.

The trip home went fairly quickly with a few stops for McDonald’s fries, dinner at Cracker Barrel, and some coffee/tea at Dunkin Donuts. I was lucky to be the first stop and left my fellow runners at 2:30 AM in my driveway.

Our finish times were: Ultra 7:57.13 / Bounce 8:25.36/ Sandy 9:48.34

I have to add one more thing. I think Ultra’s time would have been much better if he didn’t stay that whole time with me. I know I held him back. I did have a blast talking with you though, thanks.