Gazelle across the water – Bermuda Trip May 2009

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Sailing has been an important part of my life over the past 30 years. Growing up, the family sailboat and weekly sailboat outings each Sunday were a constant each summer. I learned boat handling, navigation, and sailboat racing on the LI sound. Through the years, our family has had various boats including: a 19 foot ODay Mariner, 26 foot ODay, C&C 29, Beneteau 31, and a Beneteau 36. Originally we sailed in Ossning, NY and Mamaroneck, NY and most recently up in Milford, CT. We have cruised to different harbors on the Sound and to Block Island. We have done various races mostly day races but some longer overnight races including the Around LI Regatta. These days I sail mostly out of Milford and enjoy the Thursday night races around the cans

Through the years we have discussed various longer sailboat trips. There is a race to Bermuda each year from Newport or Marion and it has been my feeling that such a race or sailing trip would be the ultimate sailing adventure. Sailing to Bermuda involves ocean or blue water sailing which in many ways is different than the coastal sailing we all do here in the LI Sound. Ocean sailing involves sailing long distances often in challenging or rough conditions. The waves in the ocean are bigger and the winds can be greater. In addition, the weather report and conditions are much more important. If the weather is bad when I am sitting in my condo in Milford I can decide to go sailing another day. When the weather is bad out on the ocean you have to deal with it or get the boat ready to handle adverse conditions. There are certain boats that are designed for ocean sailing. These boats are often heavier, designed with larger keels for stability, and have all of the emergency equipment needed for sailing in the ocean. Getting a boat ready for sailing in the ocean can be time consuming and expensive.

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I had received emails from a sailing school in Maryland offering ocean training courses. The course included two days of training followed by an ocean passage to Bermuda. It seemed like a great opportunity to get some blue water experience and sail to Bermuda with a boat that has all of the necessary equipment and an experienced captain/guide. Each trip took four students to Bermuda with a captain and first mate from the school. My Dad has always loved sailing and has always been interested in trips to Bermuda and we both decided to apply to the course. We had to send our sailing resume in order to be accepted for the trip. They wanted to make sure that we had adequate sailing experience to set sails/navigate etc. My wife Virginia had initially expressed interest in the course however it became apparent that this was not the trip for her in her early sailing career.

Before the course we were given a manual to read for Offshore Cruises and asked to get charts of the eastern seaboard and Bermuda to review. We were also given a list of equipment needed for the trip including harnesses/tethers, strobe lights, flashlights and foul weather gear. We had the majority of this equipment already, however we did have to obtain the strobe light that would attach to our PFD and foul weather boots. I always love shopping for boat equipment to add to my gear collection.

The school is located in Maryland, however the course was in Norfolk, VA. We were off early on Memorial Day for the 7 hour drive down to Norfolk, VA. Norfolk is near Virginia Beach (not the nicest place) and is a military town. We could have stayed on the boat but decided we would rather limit the time sleeping on the boat and opted for the Courtyard by Marriott. The course started the next day at 8AM (5/26). We met at the marina and got to see the boat. Celestial is a 44 foot Island Packet. This is a boat that is designed for ocean passages. It is very heavy and has a long keel. The sails are all furling so they can be easily reefed or controlled from the cockpit. It has a nice cabin with two heads with vacuum flush (see the things sailors get excited about) and a main cabin with two staterooms for sleeping. The boat has a generator, kitchen with microwave (only for use with shore power), and even has A/C (again for when hooked up to shore power). More importantly is the electronics including: VHF, single SIBAN sideband (radio for long distances to receive weather reports offshore), SATNAV (to hook up your computer underway for email, weather reports), GPS etc.

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We were able to meet our shipmates. The captain is a part owner of the boat. His name is Jochen although he preferred to be called Captain. Jochen is originally from Germany and has lived in Arlington, VA for many years. He previously worked for the State Department as a head of educational programs. Teaching at the school is the job that he has taken in his retirement. The first mate is Jim and he is from Duluth, MN near Fargo. He is a successful businessman who decided a few years ago to let his kids run his communication business and spend more time sailing. He has an Island Packet of his own and has sailed from FL up to the northeast and has taken his boat up the Hudson River, through the Erie Canal and to each of the Great Lakes. His position on the boat is non-paying but allows him to sail in the ocean/make passages at no charge. He seems to be able to fix anything which is good on a sailboat where things often break.

As for the students that are joining my Dad and I…… James is a retired internist from Dustin, FL. He is in his mid 50’s which seems sort of early to retire. He does not have a boat however he has taken each of the US Sailing courses over the last 2 years. He is very enthusiastic about sailing and tells us that his plan is to buy a boat and circumnavigate the world within the next 2-4 years. He tells us that his wife has agreed to go with him although she is not sailing on this course. Interestingly, he has signed up for the course to Bermuda as well as the return trip back to Norfolk. He seems sort of loud, but a fun guy. He seems to know a lot of book knowledge about sailing. I am always weary of people who talk a big game about sailing or other activities……….but he seems like a good guy.

Mika or Mike is the other student on board. He is originally from Poland and now lives in Texas where he works on a Hedge fund specializing in energy. He is a very nice guy around my age who is a former rock climber. He learned to climb in Poland. As Texas is very flat, he decided to find another hobby and bought a sailboat. After trying to sail he decided that he should take some classes and over the last 2 years has taken each of the US Sailing classes. He also does not have as much practical experience as my Dad and I. Importantly, Mike stands over 6 feet and is very strong. He looks like a NFL lineman and hopefully this strength can be used with all of the pulling etc on a sailboat.

The first day of the course (Tuesday 5/26) is a long day getting to know the boat. After initial introductions/goals of the course, we spend the remainder of the day learning about the journey and the boat. We talk about the shifts we will cover underway, and the jobs for each of the crew members on the boat. We actually look at all of the equipment on the boat in every locker including every spare pump, tools etc. We spend the afternoon looking at the sails and emergency equipment. In the afternoon we put up the storm trysail (a sail used with very high winds approx 45-50 MPH which hopefully we will not have to use on our journey). We finish the day with navigation including marking the rhumb line (the direct path or angle of sail to Bermuda) and setting up our plotting charts for our journey (blank charts made for dead reckoning which is a way to chart one’s progress every few hours by noting the distance traveled and the compass course). We spend some time noting the shipping lanes we will cross and studying special ocean charts called piloting charts.

Wednesday morning 5/27………We meet again at 8am to continue our preparation for the trip. It seems like the weather will allow us to leave in the afternoon. We spend the morning deploying a sea anchor which is another emergency piece of sailing equipment that I hope that I will never use. This is a 10 foot parachute that is deployed in very rough seas that slows the course of the boat and also keeps it more stable. It was interesting to see how it was set up. We finish our food preparation and the captain and one the students goes for food (unfortunately this was not me as I might have done a better job getting the right food) and we plan for our departure around 4 PM. Unfortunately the Captain discovers that he does not have his passport and his wife has to drive from Arlington to deliver the passport so our 4 pm departure turns into a 10 PM departure………..There are many calls to Virginia saying we have not left yet. We finally leave the dock around 9:45 PM for our 670 NM journey to Bermuda. It is very exciting to get underway. We have to radio the military when we pass the destroyers. Getting out of the harbor is tricky as it quite foggy. Even the lights on the buoys are difficult to see and navigation is done using the GPS. We are using the engine in order to progress out of the Chesapeake and past the Bay Bridge (given the fog we actually never see the bridge). I get some sleep as my shift is to start at midnight.

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Thursday 5/28……….As with all of the days on the journey my day starts at 0000 (midnight for those not used to military time). My shift is from midnight to 4 am and from noon until 4 pm. The first mate Jim and I are partners for the shifts. We sail the boat, keep a lookout to make sure we will not hit anything, and keep the hourly log. The log is kept hourly and consists of noting the boat’s course, wind direction/speed, wave direction/height, barometer reading, water temperature, bilge reading, voltage of the various batteries. It is a way to make sure that all of the systems on the boat are working well, a way to chart our progress, and a way to note changes in the weather. We motor during the entire 1st shift as the wind is on the nose. It remains very foggy with approximately 200 feet of visibility. We are in the Atlantic Ocean several miles off the coast. The plan is to sail down the coast to approximately Cape Hatteras and then head east to cross the Gulf Stream on our way to Bermuda. Our shift ends at 4AM and my Dad and James take the next shift. I get some sleep. The rest of the day is motoring given the wind direction. I make lunch for my shipmates as James and Mike are feeling queasy when they head downstairs. I have used the Scopolamine patch and overall am feeling fine. Thankfully, later on in the day, the wind shifts directions and we are able to set the sails. I make dinner for the boat that evening. I made spaghetti and cook some Kielbasa in the oven. (I know that Kielbasa does not go with spaghetti, however this is what we had. It would have been better if I had done the shopping as my co-student who bought the food is eating only peanut butter sandwiches when he can keep food down.) I end the day reading my daily note from Virginia that she has packed in my bag secretly before I left. She has packed me a note for each day of the trip.

Friday 5/29………….Day starts again at midnight with my shift. Sailing at night is amazing. We keep a lookout for ships. There are more stars than normal given the lack of light pollution. I can see the Milky Way. During the day the wind increases in strength and the engine is turned off. We are sailing around 6 knots with full sails. During the day we cross the Gulf Stream (sort of like a stream/river or current of warm water in the Atlantic ocean that moves north from Florida). Each hour, the water temperature increases up to approx 80 degrees and the color changes marking our entrance into the Gulf Stream. The current in the Gulf Stream is approx 3 knots and is heading North East. This will push us eastward. My 2 shipmates continue to be seasick. They can not go down below decks and continue to be sick intermittently. Thankfully my Dad and I are doing well. I am not getting much sleep given my shifts. I sleep approximately 2 hours before my evening shift and 2 hours after the shift is done. I make lunch and dinner again. I find 3 cans of Chunky soup that are beef based. I cook some rice to go with this. Cooking is done on a stove with gimbals. This stove is free to swing when the boat heels so it remains level. The pot is held with holders. We have strawberries for dessert. Overall, the goal of dinner is to have a simple meal that can all go in one bowl given the motion on the boat. We clean the dishes with sea water, bleach and then rinse them down below. The captain is a fanatic about conserving water as there is limited water in the tanks. The cabin is sort of stuffy as all of the hatches and windows are shut. This is done on ocean trips to avoid any water getting into the cabin when waves hit the boat. Water in the cabin could sink the boat. The only opening is the walkway to get in the cabin. I love A/C so you can guess that this is not the best for me. Friday night before my shift I am feeling somewhat queasy. I think it is from sleeping in the forward cabin and it is very hot in there. I find that my patch has fallen off. I go outside and feel better.

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Saturday 5/30………….I feel better when I am steering during my shift. I put on a new patch which seems to help me and I have no further queasiness for the trip. The wind is increasing to 20 + knots. We have to reef the sails and are still going 7 knots. Overall, we are making good time. The waves increase to 6-8 foot rollers. This is true ocean sailing! It is hard to steer. I am steering in the afternoon and catch a wave causing my watch mate Jim to fly off his seat and his shoulder hits the doorway. He seems dazed and I am concerned initially that he has hit his head. Thankfully, he does not have a head injury but has injured his shoulder. I am glad that there is an Orthopaedist on board! I am concerned that he might have a fracture but thankfully no dislocation. I find a sling in the medical kit. I offer him some Vicodin but he is doing well with Advil. He takes the rest of the day off. Dinner is spaghetti with garlic bread I make in the oven. We have pears out of a can for dessert. During my Dad’s shift, dolphin swim with the boat for approximately 20 minutes. Unfortunately, I do not see the dolphins as I was asleep after my shift. I do see some flying fish and a man of war jelly fish. We have not seen any other boats for 2 days.

Sunday 5/31……….It is still windy with gusts past 20 knots. As the day goes on the wind becomes less and the waves decrease in size. As the days go on, we have to start the engine to keep our speed up. The water is a beautiful blue color. We see some more flying fish. I was able to take my first shower (again conserving water) and shave. This made me feel much better. Dinner is potato and ham chowder. I am looking forward to landfall for some real food. I end the day with another nice note from my wife.

Monday 6/1………….The sails are up for my early morning shift however the winds are light and the engine is doing most of the work. At 0130 I see some light off in the distance. Over the next hour I can identify one of the buoy lights from Bermuda. It is exciting to see land. Our log shows that we have traveled 620 NM (we have been pushed by the current in the Gulf Stream). Over our shift the light from Bermuda becomes brighter and we can start to see different red lights which are the buoys marking the reefs around Bermuda. As my shift ends you can see many of the lights of Bermuda. It is too exciting to go to sleep. As the sun rises, Bermuda comes into view. We see a fast moving cruise ship to port. Bermuda is an interesting island as it is surrounded by reefs. You have to enter from the northeast part of the island. We contact radio Bermuda to tell them that we have arrived and ask permission to enter. They have our float plan already which is required when a boat sails to Bermuda. We are given instructions to keep 2 NM from various rocks/reefs around Bermuda such as Kitchen Shoals. We use the GPS to navigate our entrance to St. Georges. There is a cut to enter St. George’s harbor that is approx 150 feet wide. The island looks cool with many forts and lighthouses. We enter St. George’s harbor and go to the customs dock. We raise our yellow quarantine flag until we have cleared customs. The captain brings our passports to customs and after cleared we are allowed to raise the Bermuda flag to starboard. Our passports are stamped Bermuda Arrival By Sea (very cool). We proceed to the fuel dock and then dock the boat on the pier in the town. It is nice to be on land. We search St. Georges for a hotel and have some lunch. During the afternoon we clean the boat and we take a picture with all of the crew. The captain gives us a diploma for completing the class/journey. In the afternoon we head to the Grotto Bay Resort. It is nice to be on land. We had a nice swim in the pool and then showers (with unlimited water) and then back to St. Georges for dinner with all of the shipmates.

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Tuesday 6/1…………It is nice to be on land, however the land still feels like it is moving. My Dad and I have a nice breakfast at the hotel. We have decided to head back to CT as we have been away from home for greater than one week. I am tired and it is too early to reflect on the trip however I feel that we have had a great adventure. I can check an ocean passage off my list. I am looking forward to the return to CT and reuniting with my wife. Our flight is on Continental. Michael Douglas and Katherine Zeta Jones are on the plane (in 1st class……we are in coach)………It is nice to be home.

Click here to see more pictures from the trip.

Posted on behalf of Rich.